Monday, January 31, 2011 Impressions of Cairo
I see some of the very same streets and places I recently walked through now filled with protest demonstrations. The time I spent in Cairo was filled with strong impressions of a visit to another world. Here is what I saw and experienced in Egypt just a few weeks ago.
First impression: It looked just like Wisconsin. As our plane descended on final approach, everything was white, everywhere. It was a sandstorm – basically, a blizzard substituting sand for snow. It lasted two days, like living in a dense gritty fog, but with very strong winds. It was also dangerous, with more than a dozen lost lives attributed to effects of the storm across Northern Egypt.
Lasting impression: Cars and trucks came screeching to a halt across all lanes of a major thoroughfare as a man on a camel boldly rode out into the street. Then, a pause, and he was followed by an entire herd of camels. It all seemed surreal to me, but was commonplace for my driver, who said: “We stop because camels have strong bones, and would break our cars.”
Continuous impression: Traffic was always terrible, and driving hazardous for all concerned. There seemed to be no rules, and everyone was always extremely aggressive. Even in huge traffic jams (common) every vehicle would seek advantage, horns honking every second. We very nearly hit three vehicles, five pedestrians and one camel in the cars I rode in (and these were professional drivers).
Impressive facts: Big, sprawling and confusing, Cairo is home to 17 million people, “plus 4 million more commuters” one driver explained. No wonder the traffic was terrible. So, one of the best jobs is to be a private driver. Those who are multi-lingual hire out for destination round trips or even a complete day, and can also serve as a guide. No tourist or visitor should consider getting around Cairo and vicinity without some kind of local support.
Impressive legacy: The national Egyptian Museum is a gigantic collection of artifacts from the days of the pharaohs. Whether looking at treasures from King Tutankhamen’s tomb or the magnificent jewelry room, the fact that this beautiful art and artistry is 3,500 years old (or more) is remarkable. It sets the table for an inspiring visit to see the Sphinx and the Great Pyramids in Giza.
Impressive tastes: Turkish coffee may have the look and feel of mud, but what a great taste (and afternoon caffeine jolt). The best meals I had were Middle East cuisine, even when I didn’t know exactly what was being served. And a little late night sheesha and a glass of Egyptian Cape Bay wine became a great way to end the day relaxing with friends.
Final impression: It was a week filled with surprises, because so much was completely different from the world I am accustomed to living in. Like the street vendor explaining, “There is nothing wrong with the water here; it’s just that you cannot drink it.” My host, Hatem Salem of BBN Egypt, made sure I had whatever was needed to easily travel and engage a complete experience. In the end, just observing the vast variety of people, and the images and interactions of everyday life throughout Cairo, built a stock of memories I won’t soon forget.
It will be interesting to see what life in Cairo is like once the dust settles.



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